What deadbolt grade should I actually get for a typical home?

Grade 1 residential deadbolts offer meaningfully better forced-entry resistance than the Grade 2 or 3 hardware most homes come with by default, and the cost difference is usually modest.

Does my door need to be a certain thickness for a deadbolt?

Most standard exterior doors can accommodate a deadbolt, but we confirm this before installation to avoid surprises.

Is a double-cylinder deadbolt a good idea for my front door?

It depends on your household and whether there's a nearby window a burglar could reach through — we can walk through the tradeoffs for your specific situation.

Can you install a deadbolt to match my existing door hardware's finish?

In most cases, yes, and we can help you choose hardware that matches or complements what's already installed.

Why does the strike plate matter if the deadbolt itself is strong?

Because a forceful kick often breaks through the frame around a weak strike plate rather than defeating the lock itself — reinforcing the strike plate closes that gap.

Do you install deadbolts on commercial doors too?

Yes, though commercial doors often call for higher-grade, heavier-duty hardware suited to daily high-traffic use.

Can a deadbolt be added to a door that's never had one?

In most cases yes, assuming the door and frame can accommodate the additional hardware.

What's the difference between single and double-cylinder deadbolts?

Single-cylinder uses a key outside and a thumb-turn inside; double-cylinder requires a key on both sides, which affects emergency egress and is restricted in some situations.

Can a deadbolt be added to a door with only a knob lock currently?

In most cases yes, assuming the door itself can accommodate the additional bore hole.

Is a smart deadbolt installed differently than a standard one?

The core installation is similar, though some smart models have specific door prep requirements we'll confirm ahead of time.

What throw length should I look for in a new deadbolt?

A one-inch throw is a reasonable minimum for genuine security; we can point you toward this when discussing options.

Can you match a new deadbolt's finish to my existing door hardware?

Yes, we carry common finishes and can special-order less common ones for an exact match.

Deadbolt Installation

Brass deadbolt and lever handleset installed on a residential wood door

Deadbolt installation

On-site residential key cutting

Whether you are upgrading a builder-grade latch in a Kanata subdivision or adding a proper deadbolt to an older Centretown entry, we measure backset and strike alignment on site so the new bolt seats cleanly. Mobile deadbolt installation is available throughout Ottawa and the Ottawa Valley.

A doorknob lock alone isn't much of a deterrent — most can be forced or manipulated without a great deal of effort. A deadbolt is the actual security layer on most residential and commercial doors, and whether you're adding one for the first time, replacing a worn one, or upgrading to a higher security grade, getting it installed correctly matters more than the hardware itself.

Situations That Call for Deadbolt Installation

A door with no deadbolt at all, relying only on a knob or lever lock
An existing deadbolt that's worn, damaged, or no longer functioning smoothly
Wanting to upgrade to a higher security grade deadbolt
A newly installed or replaced door that needs hardware fitted
Moving from a single-cylinder to a double-cylinder deadbolt, or vice versa, based on your household's needs

Understanding Security Grades

Deadbolts are rated by grade, generally from Grade 3 (lightest duty, most common in budget builder-grade hardware) up to Grade 1 (commercial-grade, the most resistant to forced entry). Most homes are fitted with Grade 2 or Grade 3 hardware by default. Upgrading to Grade 1 residential hardware is a straightforward way to meaningfully improve a door's resistance to forced entry, without changing how the door looks or operates day to day.

What Installation Actually Involves

Assessment of the door itself — thickness, material, and whether it can accept the deadbolt you're considering
Boring or adjusting the door if new hardware doesn't match existing holes
Installing the deadbolt and strike plate, with the strike plate properly reinforced for real resistance to forced entry
Testing to confirm smooth operation and full engagement
Key handoff, with a new working key set

Why the Strike Plate Matters as Much as the Deadbolt

A strong deadbolt installed with a standard, lightly secured strike plate is still vulnerable to a forceful kick or shoulder strike, since the weak point shifts to the frame rather than the lock itself. We reinforce the strike plate with longer screws that reach the framing behind the door jamb, which meaningfully improves actual forced-entry resistance beyond what the deadbolt alone provides.

Single-Cylinder vs. Double-Cylinder Deadbolts

A single-cylinder deadbolt uses a key on the outside and a thumb-turn on the inside — the standard choice for most homes. A double-cylinder deadbolt requires a key on both sides, which can add security near a door with a nearby window, but it also means needing a key to exit from the inside, which some households and fire safety considerations weigh against. We can talk through which makes sense for your specific door.

Why Choose Can-Lock Security for Deadbolt Installation

Can-Lock Security is a mobile, family-owned locksmith that installs deadbolts properly, including strike plate reinforcement that's often skipped in a quick hardware-store installation. We recommend a security grade that fits your actual situation, not automatically the most expensive option.

Book Your Deadbolt Installation

Whether it's a first deadbolt, a replacement, or a security upgrade, Can-Lock Security can install it properly. Reach out to schedule.

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